![]() Consider running them flush against the cabinet then down into the battery box. In theory you don't want wires out in the open where stuff can catch or pull on them. The wires to your inverter should be better protected. Normal operation = switch on battery 1 position and engine charges both batteries with ACR between starting and house batteryĭead battery = switch on battery 2 position if the house battery is strong enough to start the engine, if not then switch on All position with the hopes that the house battery can give the starting battery enough of a boost to start engine. Wire from battery 2 terminal on switch to house battery Wire from starting battery to ACR then onto house battery(you have this now) Wire from battery 1 terminal on switch to starting battery Wire from starter to load terminal on switch You could use your existing multi-battery switch but it would take some additional wire runs. ![]() At least with jumper cables you can get a jump from someone else in addition to jumping the starting battery from the house battery. Jumper cables give you extra insurance if Murphy law strikes twice and you manage to drain your starting and house battery at the same time. If you want to jump between batteries you could just carry jumper cables. A single on/off switch is a simple option to cut the power between the battery and starter. a van with no fuses.Īs for the manual battery switch, I think you have the wrong tool for the job based on what you are trying to do. ![]() So you have the "insurance" of fuses but they are in a place where it doesn't help reduce risk much vs. There are probably plenty of vans out that that do not have the "insurance" of fusing on the positive wires going between house and starting batteries. Since the fuse is sitting between the seats the positive wire will start welding up a storm on the metal battery box/seat base. In theory if the wire got jerked really hard it could get cut on the metal where it exits the battery box. Right now if you follow the route of the positive wire I would say the first risk to the wire is where it exits the battery box. The fuses would provide more protection if they were in the battery boxes as already mentioned. So you have the spirit of the designed captured for a boat but could consider tweaking the execution a bit. If I follow the wiring for your ACR it looks to align with what Blue Seas recommends for fusing on either side of an ACR. Posted: Mon 12:11 am Post subject: Re: My dual battery isolator switch inverter setup on my 80acĬongrats on getting some improvements going. "To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevensonīuilding a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus) '87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD I’d recommend reading up on 12v wiring for rv’s to understand the reasons for what to do. Sorry but those fuses there make little sense. You should have the fuse as close to the battery as you can. Posted: Sun 9:24 pm Post subject: Re: My dual battery isolator switch inverter setup on my 80acĪ fuse is there to protect the wire from shorting on something and causing a fire or carrying too large a load with the same result. Here’s the url that links everything done from this babies birth. “Who says you can’t go slow and enjoy the scenery with a better ’s a choice” WendigoTheWesty~ formally “corkey” the 80ac slug very very soon and I’m sure they’ll help. I also am upgrading the power plant, starter, alt etc. Just one of the videos for just this iso. Maybe surge protection? If I’m doing something wrong tell me A lot suggested placing a 150 fuse on each bout a foot from the battery on the positive cable. Read many forums talked with a few people looked at some setups. Posted: Sun 7:51 pm Post subject: Re: My dual battery isolator switch inverter setup on my 80acĭunno exactly. Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top My dual battery isolator switch inverter setup on my 80ac
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